First Raspberry Care Tip - Trellis
Raspberries should be grown only on the trellis, this is proved by the experience of millions.
When planted in even rows, when installing pillars and wires, your raspberry can produce 6-8 times more berries every year and you get the highest possible quality of berries.
All your efforts lose their meaning if your green factory (raspberry plant) is not able to show its natural advantages and draws its existence like wild raspberries.
Raspberry Care Tip 2 - Update
Raspberries cannot degenerate, it is impossible biologically. But a lot of suburban areas, where raspberries are neglected thickets, and weakened diseased raspberries are called degenerate.
There are many examples when gardeners brought the “degenerate” raspberry into order and again produced fruit bushes with large berries.
It is necessary to re-mark the rows with a twine, hammer pegs along the twine in a row after 70 cm, destroy all unnecessary things, the plants left in the right places should receive complete care, and plant the necessary seedlings in the empty places (where there is nothing on the twine).
It is necessary to constantly re-plant in each row new seedlings in 70 cm, and eliminate all excess raspberry plants. It is necessary to increase the growth of the main shoots in the center of the bush and for a year or two good care will return your planting to the harvest and the quality of the berries.
The third advice for the care of raspberries - narrow rows
The raspberry rows should be narrow up to 30 cm wide, and there should be free space inside the row between the bushes.
The reason for the failures is that often raspberries are grown in the form of a broad band where the plants you plant grow interspersed with a mass of plants from the seedlings that have grown by themselves.
The biology of raspberries is such that there are always quite a few shoots around the main plant. A raspberry bush is an overgrown sapling planted by us and a growth around it. Growth is also raspberry, nobody plants it, but every year it grows by itself. For the main crop, the raspberry is a weed, and as with any weed, it must be constantly fought. It is the shoots that take up more than 50% of all the nutrients extracted and produced by the whole raspberry plant.
In practice, raspberry shoots are the enemy of raspberries, which in itself grows annually throughout the life of any raspberry planting. When sprouts are not left on raspberries, all the main shoots of the raspberry bush are well illuminated from top to bottom of the sun, so the crop is also placed along the entire length of the shoot, and not just at the top of the shoot. The berries are well lit by the sun and blown by the wind, so they are much less fungal diseases and insects.
All these advantages you always see on your saplings of raspberries in the second year of life, when they cannot be thickened yet, and they give a lot of berries all the way from the bottom to the top. We must accustom ourselves to the fact that you can not have a big harvest, if you do not constantly destroy the growth of raspberries. Destroy shoots with a sharp shovel, pruning them at a depth of 3-5 cm in the ground.
If usually the Kirzhach raspberry variety has 6-8 berries in a thickened planting on each fruit branch, then 8-14 and even 18 berries are formed on the planting where the young growth is regularly removed.
In the absence of sprouts, the root system works to strengthen the development of shoots of bush replacement, the basis of the crop and its quality. The berries are larger, sweeter and better fulfilled. There are more berries on each fruit branch (lateral), and there are also more laterals on the shoot.
If we regularly remove the shoots, then on the Kirzhach plantation from the first to the last harvest the berries almost do not shrink, their taste remains typical sweet, and even in rainy weather there is almost no rotting on the berries and they remain in good quality longer.
In addition to common failures, it is useful to remember simple tips. Raspberries in itself is such a culture, which has a large fan of leaves above the ground, and its roots are only 10-20 cm in the upper soil horizon. That is why the frequent drying of the soil greatly affects the "well-being" of raspberry plants, and the raspberry shoots that have experienced bad situations the next year, instead of 30-35, give only 8-10 branches with berries. It seems there is no destruction of the bush, but there is almost no harvest. And then it is clear that the harvest of this year is very dependent on the living conditions of the runaway in the previous year, and therefore poor care of this year is the foundation of the bad harvest for the next year. That is biology.
The advice is very old and now, when there is almost no manure, it is the raspberries that must be tried to give away all the compost from the garbage heap, from the heap of rotted weeds, from the possible import of peat or any organic matter. Neither the apple nor the currant is so depressed in the absence of organic matter, as is evident in raspberries. Under natural conditions, in the absence of organic matter in the field, raspberries do not grow at all, but grow on the forest edges with an abundance of rotten leaves and other material. Man seems to know everything, but this is not enough, it is necessary to withstand the natural demands of raspberries and mulch raspberry bushes with some plant material.
Raspberry crawls across the plot
Such is her biology, against nature can and should not do something. Not such a great problem every year in May-June to walk twice and with a sharp shovel to prune all shoots, wherever it occurs. It is not necessary to dig up each new growth if you cut it off the ground. If some gardeners dig in slate, metal sheets and say that they do not crawl raspberries, so at the same time they have deprived themselves of a bountiful harvest and will have at best only a small portion of the possible harvest of their raspberries.